learn to lead
Lead 201 $225
Learn everything you need to climb on the 'sharp end'. Basic principles, how to fall and catch falls, and how to make the best decisions about safety for you and your partner. This course includes three classes (2.5 hours each) and concludes with gym’s standard lead test on the last day. Read our guide below to learn more and access our application form.
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The lead course covers all the basic skills you’ll need to climb and belay on lead indoors. You’ll learn about risk management and gear maintenance, and you’ll get lots of hands-on experience with clipping, falling, and catching.
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A certain amount of strength and experience are required in order for you to safely practice and complete the skills covered in the lead course. Before signing up, please make sure you meet all of the following criteria:
-Climbing regularly (i.e. at least twice a week) for at least three months
-Two months of top-roping experience
-Able to flash (i.e. climb from start to finish, without resting or falling, on the first try) most climbs graded up to 5.10
-Comfortable bouldering v3 (or green tape at Joe Rockhead’s) on an overhanging wall
If upon meeting you, your instructor believes that you don’t meet these requirements, the gym reserves the right to postpone the remainder of your course until a later date.
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The course takes three weeks to complete. Each week, you will have one 2.5 hour lesson with an instructor and two practice sessions outside of class time with your partner.
The course requires a significant time commitment. Please make sure you have lots of time to climb and are available for three consecutive weeks before signing up.
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Yes, practice is mandatory. Each week, you and your partner will need to practice together in the gym at least twice between classes.
Practicing also requires the help of a third person to top-rope belay while you and partner mock-lead. Your helper must be top-rope certified at Joe Rockhead’s. They do not need to be lead certified. If you don’t know anyone who can help you with your practice sessions, let us know and we’ll help you find someone.
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Courses can run with two or three participants. You are responsible for finding your own partner(s).
If you’re looking for a partner, you can check the partner sign-up sheet at the gym. You should plan to meet your prospective partner for a few top-rope sessions to ensure your compatibility before signing up for the lead course together. Some things to look for: good communication, attention to detail, the ability to trust one another, and similar weekly schedules. Lead climbing is an inherently risky activity and Joe Rockhead’s is not responsible for your choice of partner(s).
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$225 plus HST per participant. Regular admission fees apply.
If you have registered for the lead course and aren’t a member at Joe Rockhead’s, you can purchase a discounted single-month membership for $95 while you take the course.
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In addition to your usual harness, shoes, and chalk-bag, you’ll also need the following gear:
-Grigri (N.B. The Petzl Neox can be used for lead climbing, but may NOT be used during the lead course or lead test)
-Screw lock carabiner
-Single climbing rope - your rope must be at least 30 metres long. Some manufacturers make 40 metre ropes which are perfect for indoor climbing. If you plan to use your rope outdoors, you should get a rope that is at least 60m long. Ask about our discounted member rates for pro-shop items.
-Edelrid Ohm (if there is a large weight difference) - if there is more than a 30% weight difference between participants, you will need to use an Ohm device in order for the lighter person to belay safely.
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Please read through all of the information in the previous sections before signing up for the course.
Once you’re ready, you can fill out the application form . We’ll get back to you within 48 hours to book some classes or request any follow-up information we may need to complete your booking. Please allow a bit of extra time on weekends.
If you have any questions, please email info@joerockheads.com
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Climbers who have registered for the lead course are eligible to receive a 15% discount when buying a rope and Grigri bundle from the gym’s pro-shop. The discount will also be applied to any other gear purchased at the same time.
Lessons must be paid for in-full beforehand. This offer cannot be combined with any other discounts or promotions.
I KNOW HOW TO LEAD
Lead Test $15
The lead test at Joe Rockhead’s is a one-hour long certification during which a staff member will assess your ability to climb and belay safely at our facility.
The test takes approximately one hour and costs $15 per person. You are responsible for finding your own partner for the test, who is either taking the test with you or has already passed the test. During the test, you will be asked to climb and belay on three climbs including at least one 5.10 in the gym’s steep overhang section.
You must provide your own rope, Grigri, and locking carabiner for the test. Participants are permitted to use an Edelrid Ohm if there is an appropriate weight difference. Both the climber and belayer in this case must pass a short Ohm test to demonstrate their theoretical understanding of and practical experience with the device. Lead climbing with a Petzl Neox is permitted at the gym, but the lead test must be passed using a Grigri.
Lead certifications completed at Joe Rockhead’s or Rock Oasis on or after April 17th, 2024 are valid at both gyms.
lead policies
Please refer to our policies page.